Alaska- And We're Off

Saturday morning I woke up (quite literally) in a burst of excitement.  I could already hear the dogs barking on the snow laden streets below.  It had snowed all night long and there was fresh powder covering everything in sight.  We got dressed and bounced downstairs to catch breakfast before the Ceremonial Start at 10:00 a.m. Apparently everyone else in the hotel had the same idea because there was a line at the only restaurant in the hotel that served breakfast.  While waiting in line we called another diner close by to check on the wait time... it was an hour and a half, so we decided to stay put.  The line moved quickly and I was soon enough eating my steak and eggs. 

While we ate, I freshened up on my musher knowledge reading the Anchorage Daily News filled with mini profiles of each of the 66 contestants.  The ceremonial start of the race takes place on 4th Avenue in downtown Anchorage, each of the mushers riding just eleven miles through and then out of town.  Its like a snow covered dog parade/ race.  And I LOVE IT.  You can walk around the streets and see the teams getting ready to go, take pictures, and say hi ! 

Lance Mackey, 4 times Iditarod champ!!

Sledding down the street!

We stayed to watch most of the ceremonial start then headed back to the hotel to get our car and head towards Willow, AK- home of the official start of the race to take place at 2:00 p.m. Sunday.   Driving through Alaska is like driving through .... I dunno... HEAVEN.  Its so beautiful.  I love mountains, I love trees, I love snow and I love mountains and trees covered in snow.  CHECK!

We met our guides at Eagle Quest Lodge in Willow and packed up our sleds.  We had repacked our clothes and other necessities into duffel bags that could be packed in dry bags to be pulled on a trailer attached to one of the guides snow machines.  After a couple hours of packing up the sleds and dressing ourselves in (many) layers of clothes it was snow machine time !! We hopped on our sleds and took off down the trail along the side of the road.  The trail quickly turned into the trees and we were officially off !! It took a few minutes to get used to riding a snow machine again but not long after we had taken off I felt once again at home on my snow beast.  We rode about thirty miles before stopping for dinner at a "restaurant" off the trail called "Luces."  This part of the trail was over a frozen river so there are lodges along it, mostly aimed at fisherman in the warmer months. 

We pulled up and popped inside.  Dad I and ordered cheeseburgers and our guide ordered Chili.  While we waited I went used the facilities, aka and outhouse aka, the nicest outhouse in Alaska.  Its heated, well lit and well taken care off.  Fully stocked with toilet paper and wood shavings to drop down the hole when you've taken care of business to help calm the stanky.  There was even hand sanitizer.  Its basically the Ritz Carlton of backcountry outhouses. 

Our guide, Andy, got his chili and dad and I still waited for our burgers.  After about an hour of waiting we realized they had definitely forgotten our order.   Since Andy was done eating, Dad was exxhhaausted (it was now circa de 8 p.m.) and we still had two hours of riding left ... we decided to peace out ! We each ate a granola bar and we back on the trail.

Riding at night seems really scary at first but then you get used to it.  Snow machines have headlights just like cars and work pretty well.  Its basically a big game of follow the leader.  And believe me, when it's 10 degrees outside and you're in the middle of a frozen river in Alaska... in the dark- you're going to follow the leader !

We pulled off the trail around 10 and followed the "road" up to Northwoods Lodge, our home for the evening.  We were met outside when we pulled up by the owner's son who showed us to our cabin.  It was so clean and spacious.  The bunk beds were clearly calling out to me.  There were outhouses not far from the cabin, or I could go into the lodge for toilets with running water.  After we dropped our things in the cabin we headed over to the lodge.  We met the owners and walked around.  There was a beautiful gameroom upstairs with a pool table, poker table and incredible built in bar.  The bathroom though is what took my breath away.  Marble countertops, a flushable toilet and most of all a hot shower .  Truly a sight for sore eyes. (note: i had been away from "civilization" for approximately 6 hours at this point.  How quickly we miss our toilets ).  It didn't take much time until I was upstairs in the hot shower scrubbing my stinky self !

Then it was time for sleep!! Big day ahead- 90 miles !!

Northwoods Lodge by morning !

Alaska- In the Beginning

I just got back from a 12 day trip to Alaska with my Dad and brother at 5:30 this morning.  I of course slept in until 2:00 p.m.  I feel refreshed.  You?

We went up to follow the Iditarod for the second year in a row.  If you don't know what the Iditarod is I refer you here , here and here.  You should really take a look. Join me in the obsession.

First off, there are several phenomenons that happen to me when I step onto the ground in Alaska.  The first is that I become a HUGE dog lover.  There must be something in the air because as soon as we land all I want is to cuddle with a beautiful Alaskan Husky.  Not only are all the dogs I've seen in Alaska wonderfully trained, but I think I feel safer from an impending dog attack under the protection of my seventeen layers of armor clothes.

The second phenomenon to happen is that I join in the northern spirit and begin to agree that twenty degrees isn't cold... and is actually a bit warm...if you will.

The third is pure, unadulterated joy.  I feel giddy and elated.  My heart wells up in my chest and I actually feel overcome with excitement and anticipation.


Dad and I arrived in Anchorage on Thursday March 1 after twelve hours of travel. We were greeted in the terminal by some beautiful sculptures, all in the spirit of all things Alaska.  Our favorite was the pair of fishing waders.

 We got our car from Enterprise and headed to The Hotel Captain Cook in downtown Anchorage.  The hotel is themed off the famed explorer, Captain Cook, complete with beautiful wall paintings and subtle nautical touches throughout.

After getting settled into our room Dad and I walked a few blocks to Sullivan's Steak House for dinner.  Our waitress works as a rafting and kayaking guide in the summers and has a huge interest in all things outdoors.  Dad naturally had a million things to talk about with her. They have read all the same books and been to the same places and just chatted all night long.  She thought we were locals (whoop!) We actually just got a card in the mail from her saying she enjoyed meeting us!  How's that for service?

Friday morning Dad woke up nearly two hours earlier then me even though  I woke up before 8!  I met him downstairs and ate breakfast while he sipped coffee, having eaten hours before. After breakfast we layered up and headed out on the town.  We walked around downtown for a few hours.  There was hardly anyone out and about.  I liked it.  We went to a couple furriers before finding a beaver hat for dad.  

I think it suits him.

Every year in Anchorage in the last few weeks of February and the very beginning of March there is "Fur Rendezvous" aka "Fur Rondy."  There are all sorts of events that go on all month leading up to the start of the Iditarod including a carnival and "Running with the Reindeer" We walked down to the carnival fora few minutes.  I couldn't get over seeing the rides sitting on a bright bed of snow.  Something in me told me it couldn't be safe.  That's probably because I'm used to sweating like a mad woman at the rodeo carnival which happens at the same time of year.

The last thing I wanted to do in the freezing weather was get on a ferris wheel and be whipped around in the wind.  It was, afterall, my first day in the cold.  I take a few days to warm up.  Punny.

We ate lunch and then jumped in the car to run a few errands around town.  We stopped by a Fred Meyer to pick up some snacks for the trail.  I had never been in a Fred Meyer before and I can only describe it as a Wal-Mart on acid.  Its like Wal-Mart meets Time Square on New Years after drinking a few 5 Hour Energys... and on acid. It has everything you would ever need... plus more.... but in a completely nonsensical manner.  At least I couldn't figure it out.  Also I saw a girl walk in with a jean skirt and no leggings... in 11 degrees.  That's a woman. Or a crazy person.

We piddled around a little more then headed back to the hotel to eat dinner at Fletcher's, a bar and restaurant in on the first floor.  It was delicious and they still have some of the best creme brulee to grace my lips.

Also here are the bar taps... if you can guess what the handles are made out of you get a dollar  (virtual) high five.

 



 Hold on to your seats... there's so much more to come !